Polcari’s: Little Shop Of Wonders

Steven Vilkas
4 min readJun 24, 2019

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Boston’s North End is full of history, full of flavour, full of characters. Absolutely brimming with all three in fact, so much so that the neighbourhood attracts more visitors yearly than I care to count. Math was never my strong suit, but coffee certainly is.

Before I pour out why Polcari’s coffee is some of the best in the entire world however, there’s a lot more I’d like to present before you as additional items for your consideration. These items help to both enhance its appeal, but also set it apart. Once you visit, you’ll have a chance to see for yourselves why I’ve decided to write this.

Slush Fun

Picture this: The North End with its cobbled streets, charming buildings, and old-world atmosphere. A little boy and his mother on a summer’s day in the city. It’s hot and they’re getting thirsty…then she sees the white and red sign on Salem St. Italian slush or Italian ice, whatever you choose to call it, is one of the simplest yet tastiest things on the face of the planet.

Cool, sweet, and refreshing — memories of enjoying a cup or two of lemon or watermelon-flavoured slush are some of the first I have of Polcari’s…back before I knew how to write or even, shockingly, before I knew a single bad joke. Extra scoops for “her baby”, my mother found a reason to rate Polcari’s high on the scale and I’ll certainly never forget how they helped to form this special seasonal tradition.

Back To The Grind & The Goods

You might remember from my previous article how much coffee means to my dad and I. Coffee makes everything better. The rituals developed around it in my life have become synonymous with peace, rest, and relaxation. In this sense Polcari’s has supplied so much good for me — not just the one pound bags of beans in the signature white packages or the wide variety of blends to choose from either: It’s also about the overall experience — the professionals on the other end of the registers who also wear additional hats — cultural, historical, conversational and beyond.

You feel so comfortable visiting and shopping there because you’re being treated so well in addition to having access to world-class goods. Speaking of world-class, I’ve been to the bazaars of Istanbul…and I’ve seen several exotic selections from the far-flung corners of the world bottled up at Polcari’s — an international appeal! Take it from my dad: He’s built a whole cabinet of spices ranging from savoury to spicy with a lot more in-between.

You Might As Well Pull Up A Chair

Hospitality, customer service, customer success. We read these terms online all the time. Maybe we hear about them in conversation. Great stuff. When they’re practiced authentically? It’s magical…it makes all the difference between the best and the worst business.

I’ve seen tour groups with almost fifty people in their ranks being regaled with stories while taking orders, answering the phone and listening to my dad’s latest cold brew coffee ratios. I’ve seen clients from as far away from China buy whole boxes worth of the amazing Amaretto blend, so much pannetone sold during the holidays, and even if there’s a million things going on at once…the old folks always get listened to even if they’re repeating the same tale from several decades ago.

The Stars Of The Show

Bobby Eustace, Nick LaBonte, the whole team at Polcari’s is top-tier when it comes to running things and making sure first-timers and regulars both have something to be highly satisfied with. You won’t just get a cup of espresso or a bag of licorice — you’ll be able to see how an true-blue small business retains its original core characteristics: bespoke in every sense of the word, leaving whole crowds smiling or just an older woman who comes in once or twice a week for a pound of pecorino romano (yes…they sell cheese too!) and more importantly a chance to catch up.

There is laughter erupting every so often and it’s not from my material. Usually Nick has said something witty, old friends have reunited, new friendships have been formed, never ever a dull moment. Most of all you’ll witness just how genuine, how driven, the stars of the show are toward guaranteeing best practices, best purchases, and the best of time for everyone who walks through that door and jingles the bell.

In The End…There’s Nothing Like It

In writing this article, I’ve sought to capture in words the treasure beyond measure that Polcari’s really is. I’ve done my best, but my advice to you is to seek it out for yourself and have a great time. If you happen to order a slush, spare a thought for the young writer who told you all about it.

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